However, our chalk would be far too good to use as a substitute for snow in the front garden. But even if used sparingly, sooner […]
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What do you usually do in your spare time?
I probably spend most of my spare time in the mountains. Sport climbing and alpine climbing in the alps or if I have a bit more time I go somewhere else in this big and wide world. In winter and spring I do a lot of ski touring and I enjoy to capture all these adventures with my camera. During the week I am often in the Boulderwelt to train or to train others.Give us a fun fact about you or a remarkable experience in your climbing career.
My sudden promotion to mountain guide: When I was travelling with my two siblings in the summer in the Cordillera Blanca, the wonderful Andes of Peru, we tried our first 6000m peak, Tocllaraju ( 6034m ). A good friend of my brother, Schuyler, who had already gained quite a bit of mountain and glacier experience, was also there and led our small group. Everything was planned, equipment rented, a donkey organised to the hut and off we went on our adventure. From the hut, we started with an introductory tour of the Urus, which at 5423m was by far my highest mountain and a pretty fast start in terms of altitude. The next day we set off on the expedition: first glacier camp at 5000m, second glacier camp at 5350m, and from there we are to go all the way up the next morning. We start at 3am, quickly choke down a cold outmeal and set off at -10 degrees Celcius. It's a steep climb up the glacier and very strenuous, no one has slept much. After a few hours we are faced with the first big challenge, a 100 metre high and 80 degree steep ice wall. Schuyler is in a very bad way, he has become altitude sick and has no choice but to descend to the camp. There we are, standing in front of the big ice wall, but there's really no question of turning back. Let's go then, I think to myself, it's not so different from multi-pitch climbing. So I take the lead and climb the few pitches of ice climbing. Piece by piece we work our way from there towards the summit. It gets more strenuous with every step and progress is very slow, the altitude is really getting to us. But it goes on. At some point, after what feels like an eternity, we are standing in front of the summit pyramid. But unfortunately that was it, a far too thin snow bridge and then a vertical ice wall. The last part is just too dangerous and we are too exhausted. We made it just over 6000 metres. We take a short break and start the no less adventurous descent. After several hours we are back at camp and have survived the worst. Everyone is incredibly exhausted but healthy and unharmed. And richer by an adventure that we will not soon forget.What are your long term and/or short term goals?
So far, Kale Borroka in Siurana (8b+) is my most difficult sport climbing route. So, clearly my next goalis to climb 8c and maybe a few other 8b+ routes. But it's also particularly important for me to develop in all areas of climbing and mountaineering. That means difficult multipitches, trad climbing, ski/ alpine tours and hopefully more bouldering competitions at some point. During the last year in Spain, I was also able to work a lot on my onsight skills, one of my favourite disciplines, as it is so versatile and challenging. In the meantime, I've already climbed an 8a+ and a few 8a's in Onsight and I want to keep collecting routes. The number one goal is of course to stay uninjured and to have as much fun climbing as possible ;)
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