Martina Demmel

„ I grew up in a small vilage in southern Munich and ever since I was able to walk I have been to the mountains with my parents a lot. Skiing was the outdoor sport I liked especially which is reason why I did competitive skiing up to the age of 15. When I was 16, I discovered climbing for me through a friend of mine, which I am more than happy about. I simply love the mix of elegance, strength and the mental side, as well as the process of projectingf. Since I climb almost exclusively on rock, travelling and discovering new climbing areas together with good friends is one of my favourite activities. After finishing school in 2019, I have more or less taken a few years off to get to know many new climbing areas until I probably enter the world of apprenticeship next autumn. “

Achievements Comps

  • 15th place (semi-final) at my first World Cup in Briancon 2020
  • 22nd place World Cup Lead Chamonix 2021
  • German Lead Champion Augsburg 2021
  • German Vice Lead Champion 2020

Achievements Outdoors

  • Sport climbing
  • Joe-Cita (9a) 5th attempt, Oliana, Spain
  • San Ku Kaï (8c+, org. 9a) 23rd attempt, Entraygues, France
  • La morenita (8c+) 4th attempt, Oliana, Spain
  • Joe Blau (8c+) 3rd attempt, Oliana, Spain
  • Humildes pa casa (8b+) Onsight, Oliana, Spain
  • Bouldering
  • Panic Room (7C), 2 Sessions, Kochel
  • Pinch of Kunst (7B+), 30mins+touching the holds without moving a year ago, Kochel, Deutschland
  • Wini Two (7B+), 1 hour, Silvretta, Austria
  • Amateur (7B+), 2 hours, Franken, Germany
  • La rampe infinie (7B) Flash, Bleau
  • Multi pitches
  • Gsi or not to be (7c), 8 pitches, 200m, Martinswand, Austria
  • Fiedler flunger (7b) Onsight, 8 pitches, 200m, Martinswand
  • Tiramisu (7a+) Onsight, 7 pitches, 180m, Martinswand
More about Martina at Digital Rock

Questions to Martina

What do you usually do in your spare time?

Of course I like it best to spend the whole day climbing on the rock together with some good friends. Check out a few routes together, cheer each other on and enjoy the day in nature. In my opinion funny evening at the campfire with cosy Reggea songs makes the whole thing perfect. Since I only discovered climbing at the age of 16, skiing is also one of my favourite pastimes. I have been having fun on these two boards since I was 4 years old because the feeling of immersing myself in fresh, deep powder is simply priceless. In the few quiet minutes in between, I also like to be creative and decorate my shoes, grigri, ... with nail polish, listen to relaxing music, cuddle with my cats or feverishly watch my favourite series.

Give us a fun fact about you or a remarkable experience in your climbing career.

Maybe some of you have already wondered what the scar on my nose is all about, even if it is no longer visible at first sight. Here is the story: Back to one of my first real rock days about 2 years ago and my first 7b project back then. A vertical 20m wall with many small crimps and a small bead in the upper part of the wall on which a hook is placed in the middle. In my second attempt I came already unexpectedly safe up to the Crux over the bead, however, then I did not hit a crimp properly and went straight downwards. Now no one would believe me that I would not hit a big crimp, but I am so talented to my nose get caught in the small draw when I fell off the route. So, to my belayer it became clear quite fast that it was not rain but my blood that was dripping down from above. Then this day ended with a few stitches in the hospital and even if it might sound a bit brutal, I can only laugh about it now because the probability that something like this will happen is so incredibly low ;)

What are your long term and/or short term goals?

Since I have already exceeded my climbing goals unexpectedly fast several times, it is difficult for me to set realistic goals at the moment. All in all I have soo many dream lines in my head which I'd like to try. Those are all over the world in various grades! However, it would be a nice dream to climb a 9a and to push my limit even further. It is also always important to me to not only do what you feel comfortable in but also to work on your weaknesses. An almost impossible goal would be not to know what your own antistyle is, because you are equally comfortable and strong in every climbing style. In addition, I would like to try out the other types of climbing, such as trad climbing, alpine climbing and ice climbing and gain more experience in these directions. I can't imagine a life without travelling at all since I started climbing, which is why my curiosity for new cultures and landscapes always motivates me and drives me to further climbing trips. In the long run I want to keep up the joy and motivation of all what I do. I am infinitely grateful to have Mantle as a support and to be part of this team.

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