And now we come to the terms that probably cause non-climbers to occasionally look a little confused in a bouldering gym.
"Allez, allez!"
Allez is French and means roughly:
"Go!", "Come on!" or "Keep going!"
In climbing, it is used as a cheer.
Especially at international competitions, you regularly hear:
"ALLEZ! ALLEZ! ALLEZ!"
How many times you have to shout "Allez" in a row has not yet been conclusively determined by science.
"Gamba!"
Also "Gamba!" can be heard in parts of the climbing scene as a cheer.
The word comes from Italian and actually means leg.
Figuratively, the shout is intended to remind you to use your legs or keep fighting.
And indeed:
"Use your legs!"
is probably one of the most common pieces of advice beginners hear when climbing.
"Psyche!"
Psyche! or "Psyched!" means roughly in the climbing scene:
motivated, excited, full of anticipation.
Example:
"I'm really psyched about the project."
Or:
"The new boulder makes me mega psyched."
What does Send mean?
A Send is a successful ascent.
When you finally climb your project:
"I sent it."
This also gives rise to terms like:
Send Go: the successful attempt.
Sending Season: the supposedly perfect season for hard projects.
What is a Dab?
A Dab happens in bouldering when you touch something during an attempt that is not part of the boulder.
For example:
- Ground
- Crash pad
- neighboring boulder
- Tree
- Spotter
Then the attempt is strictly speaking no longer clean.
Especially tragic:
You hold the last hold of your project – and your foot very lightly touches the crash pad.
Dab.
What is a Barn Door?
Barn Door literally means barn door.
In climbing, it describes the moment when your body swings uncontrollably sideways off the wall – roughly like a door opening.
Countermeasures can include:
- Flagging
- Heel Hook
- Toe Hook
- better foot position
- body tension
What is an Elvis Leg?
Everyone who has ever stood significantly above their last hold probably knows the Elvis Leg.
One leg suddenly starts shaking uncontrollably.
Like Elvis on stage.
Usually helps:
- relax briefly
- lower the heel
- distribute weight better
- keep breathing
Panic rarely makes it better.
What does Pump mean?
The Pump is the typical feeling of completely exhausted forearms when climbing.
The forearms get hard, the fingers no longer want to close properly and suddenly even the biggest hold feels surprisingly small.
Then it's time to:
Shake out.
What does Shake Out mean?
During a Shake Out, you try to relax and shake out one arm during a route.
Ideally, you find a good rest position for this and then switch arms.
Pros look relaxed doing this.
Beginners sometimes look like they are desperately trying to shake water off their hands.
What does Sandbagged mean?
A boulder or route is sandbagged if it feels unusually hard for the stated difficulty grade.
For example:
"This is supposed to be 6B?!"
Welcome to the sandbag.
The opposite is often called soft.
So a "soft 7A" feels relatively easy for 7A.
What does Highball mean?
A Highball is an unusually high boulder.
Since the consequences of a fall also increase with height, the line between bouldering and free soloing becomes blurred with very high highballs.
Highball therefore does not simply mean:
more crash pads.
But also often:
more head.
What is a Sit Start?
In a Sit Start, a boulder starts very low or actually sitting on the ground.
The prescribed starting holds and footholds determine from when the attempt counts.
What does "No Hands" mean?
A No-Hand Rest Position is a place in a route where you can position yourself so that you do not need a hand to hold on.
For example by:
- Wedging
- Stemming
- good balance
Ideally, you can shake out both arms there and recover.
And ask yourself why you wasted so much strength on the last five meters.