Venga, Venga! A Muerte!! -My Spain Trip 2018

May 7, 2018|Solveig Korherr

Venga, Venga! A Muerte!! -Mein Spanientrip 2018

The Spanish term "A Muerte" (Until Death) is often used in climbing to cheer someone on, and I couldn't have described my six-week trip to Spain to Siurana and Margalef any better. In climbing terms, this means pushing past your own limits when projecting a route and getting the absolute most out of yourself. Nothing is free, so you really have to want it and give more than 100%. This attitude is required to one day send a route that lies beyond your previous limits.

Malasombra 7c+, Margalef; ©Joshua Braun-Wimmer

My Project "Kale Borroka"

Why am I talking about projecting? - In Siurana, I was able to climb my first 8b+, named `Kale Borroka`. One of the king lines in the "El Pati" sector. The 38m long route immediately catches the eye. It starts with a very overhanging crack and then splits into 3 different routes. To the left is an 8b named "Dogma", straight up is "Kale Borroka", and to the right goes the well-known "Estado Critico" (9a). Since all 3 lines are very popular, there was a long queue on some days. Since I felt confirmed in my form after 3 weeks in Siurana through my successes in smaller projects and the queue had also decreased a bit, ambition and curiosity seized me to try this route. At the beginning through the crack, the route is very powerful and very dynamic for "small" hands. After that comes a very good rest position on the crimps, where you can briefly lower down again and after that continue continuously to the crux – dynamic moves on bad edges. Since the crux is located in the upper part of the route, you are always very pumped and tired by this point.

Kale Borraka 8b+, Siurana; ©Tijana Pljeskonjic

After my first attempt, I was totally thrilled by the route, the moves felt doable and I wanted to work on the route. Physically it is very demanding, which is why more than two attempts in one day would have been superfluous for me. After so many meters of climbing, you feel completely exhausted and simply look forward to the sleeping bag in the evening.

Very quickly I managed to climb the lower and middle part better and more effectively. Most of the time I failed at the crux, i.e. at the move to the bad edge or at continuing. Several times it felt very close, which is why I didn't want to give up.

Short trip to Margalef and Barcelona

We had little luck with the weather in Siurana throughout March. From warm sunshine to icy cold and snow, everything was there. Since another week of rain was ahead, we decided to go to Margalef for a few days. After a week focusing only on "Kale Borroka", the change of pace did me a lot of good. Here too, the weather only allowed for 2 cool climbing days. With the steep hole climbing on conglomerate, Margalef naturally offers a completely different kind of climbing. We had our fun in the well-known sector "Raco de les Espedellas" and were able to tick off a few nice lines. We also spent a few days in Barcelona and visited the Sharma gym.

Sending week

After another week, the weather in Siurana improved again and my motivation to try the route again was greater than ever.

Finally, after a total of 9 days and 16 attempts working on the route, I was able to climb over the crux and clip the quickdraw. Now I stand at the top and am simply totally overwhelmed by my emotions. The first 8b+! A great feeling! All the weight and pressure you put on yourself is suddenly gone and you only feel relief and pure joy.

More than "just" a climbing holiday

But of course my trip to Spain didn't only consist of that one route. The time was especially characterized by the many inspiring people I met from everywhere or met again. I had eventful weeks that were filled with great climbing, great company, good food, good music and not to forget impressive nature. Catalonia offers so much landscape-wise, everything a climbing heart desires. Hopefully the next trip to Spain won't take long!