The Accident
It has been 6 years now, but the memories are as clear as if it had happened yesterday.
One week before the German Championships and my chance to qualify for the World Cup in bouldering, my foot slips during a competition simulation on a mixed-style boulder, and I hear a "crack" in my shoulder. It is not the first time I have injured myself, and I quickly realize: "Let the adrenaline wear off first and then see if it is something worse." Only a minute later at most do I decide not to boulder anymore, and even then it was already clear to me that it must be something "more serious", because I had to change my T-shirt without lifting my arm.
Labrum surgery – yes or no?
My first step was, of course, to see a doctor. Looking back, I recommend this to everyone: don't just go to one doctor, but go to 3-5 doctors and get an opinion from physios and osteopaths! There are many great professionals, but everyone is limited in their knowledge and perspective. The expertise of the experts differs in its nature, but not in its value. If I could undo my decision, I would have listened more to my physios and osteopaths. My chances of recovering without surgery would have looked pretty good, but I didn't realize that at the time. So I had surgery about 5 weeks after the accident during my summer holidays. Anyone who really needs surgery should try to find a physio and/or osteopath even before the surgery! They are often very busy, and it feels good to know that you are in good hands after the surgery. At this point, a huge thank you to my long-time companion and supporter Imke Goßel. You are in the best physio hands with her!
Post shoulder surgery – dealing with the frustration
In the first weeks after shoulder surgery (or other injuries), you can't do much except surround yourself with great people and do something good for your mood. That makes it all the more important to share your own frustration and despair. A strong mindset is very important for the "comeback". It felt good to drive to Magic Wood with my friends: just get out, sleep or read on the crash pads, watch and cheer on the bouldering, chat, laugh, and simply continue to "be part of it". Soon, everyday challenges or burdens such as showering, tying shoes, cutting food, etc., receded into the background. A little side note for the girls: I was able to tie my first ponytail again after 6 weeks.
Finally back to sports!
About 5 weeks after the surgery, I was finally able to start exercising again. The joy was only semi-great, because at first it involved jogging, squats, and so on. In other words: leg day every day, which definitely didn't hurt me! Soon rehab also started, and with it came a motivation boost: I could finally start to counteract the lost 4cm of bicep circumference. Thanks to a PE class in the Q12, I managed to go to rehab 4-5 days a week for 4-6 hours each time and probably achieved the best physical fitness of my life here. My parents noticed this especially by the constantly empty refrigerator.. :D Rehab involved daily physio and training. Initially with a focus on long-duration, low-resistance exercise, it gradually built up with increasing mobility and strength. Towards the middle – end of rehab, I was finally able to go back to the climbing wall. All body parts except the shoulder were fitter than ever and wanted to go full throttle right away.
But first, patience was required. Climbing many easy things, no dynos or similar,.. That can often be harder than climbing at your limit. It helped me to come up with my own little challenges so that I wouldn't climb too much and too hard too quickly.
For example:
- Complete an easy circuit
- Climb the boulder 3-5 times in a row
- Hold one-armed for 2-3 seconds on each hold
In an old new form – with limitations
About 7 months after the surgery, I was slowly getting back my old shape. But not everything was in perfect order yet, because I lacked mobility, and a lot of it. Imagine you are standing with your back to the wall and raising your arms to shoulder height with the backs of your hands against the wall. Now you bend them at the elbow joint to 90 degrees and the backs of your hands continue to touch the wall in the optimal case. Unfortunately, I was missing 15-20cm to the wall there, and that unfortunately seemed set to remain so until 2021, apart from minimal improvement. But first, about 9 months after the surgery, I broke my foot with a lot of talent (you have to learn how to get on the bus). Yippie, campus board training!! Oh no, not really. Because the shoulder didn't really like that. So soak up the sun, chill, and twiddle your thumbs. When I had overcome those 6 weeks as well, shortly after that, I went abroad with my high school diploma in my pocket.
