Even as a child, I dreamed of this incredibly spectacular boulder. Back then, I was immediately blown away when I first saw Chris Sharma in the film "Dosage 3" trying the steep edge-shield. In recent years, I often stood before the mighty boulder and tried to imagine what it would feel like to try this boulder.
In mid-February 2019, the time had finally come. The first session at "Off the Wagon". Fortunately, Jimmy Webb, probably one of the strongest rock boulderers ever, was also part of the group that day. After warming up, we tried the boulder together, with Jimmy attempting the sit start.
The line runs through an overhang that is about 50 degrees steep. To take the starting position, you first have to climb onto the hay wagon that stands directly under the boulder. The crux of the boulder consists of the first two moves, with the first move being the hardest. You take the starting position by fully committing to two small overhead edges. Now you place your left foot on a non-existent greasy foothold and your right foot on a relatively good foothold, which is, however, positioned somewhat awkwardly. Now follows the first and at the same time hardest move. You pull on the two small edges and fire for an edge for the first finger lock. Here it is important that you catch the edge with four fingers and half-set. After successfully completing the first move, you are now hanging quite tense on the two edges and your feet are hanging in the air. Next comes the spectacular "Campus move". First you try to get your center of gravity under your right arm and then release the left hand from the starting hold. Your entire body weight now hangs from your bent right arm. You dive under your right arm and try to hit the saving crack. Once there, a few more swinging moves on good edges follow until you reach the edge. From there, you go over good holds to the exit slab and up to the top.
In the first session, I didn't manage to perfectly catch the edge for the first finger lock. Most of the time I only hung there with three fingers and couldn't hold the position. In the following weeks, I spent a lot of time on the Moon Board to improve my edge power. The effort paid off noticeably three weeks later. In the second session, I felt considerably stronger than the last time.
And then the time had finally come. I held the first move. Surprised and full of nerves, I set off for the "Campus move" into the saving hold. And bam, I was already back on the crash pad. I didn't have the edge properly in my hand and thus didn't have enough strength to perform the swinging move. On the one hand, I was incredibly happy that I had managed the hardest move, and on the other hand, annoyed that I didn't finish the boulder right away.
During the break before the next attempt, it started to drizzle. "This can't be happening," I thought to myself and slipped into my shoes to make the next attempt. I chalked my hands, then closed my eyes and went through the moves in my head. Fully focused, I took the starting position and fired firmly for the edge. Bullseye! I had caught the edge perfectly. Full of euphoria to have managed the first move a second time, I set off for the "Campus move". "Yes, caught it!" Full of energy, I climbed up to the exit slab. Once there, I had to realize that the holds were already a bit wet. Carefully, I crept over the slab up to the top. "YES!!!" Overjoyed, I sat on top of the boulder and looked down at my crew, who had loudly cheered me up the boulder. I couldn't really comprehend it yet. Slowly, I climbed down the back of the rock and tried to make sense of what had just happened. With a big smile on my face, I walked around the block and the guys congratulated me on the send.
At this point, I would like to thank Luis Gerhardt and Leon Fraunholz, who actively supported me during both sessions! I would also like to thank Kim Marschner for the photos!
Here is the video: Simon Unger "Off the Wagon"
