The story of my first 9a, how it happened, hurdles,
problems and much more that I will try to bring you a little closer to. After a very rainy short trip to Mallorca in early November, I sincerely hoped for a good mood from the weather god and beautiful days in Osp. The Misja Pec rock ridge in Slovenia has been considered a climbing mecca for decades, located in Istria and not far from the sea. My health a bit shaky, the vacation began and the pleasant fresh air contributed significantly to my recovery. The weather was excellent, actually only one day out of nine was slightly cloudy, otherwise it had a pleasant 10 to 15 degrees, with the sun on the rock feeling a bit more.
I knew that I was in good shape because I was already able to climb some hard routes in Mallorca in a few tries. Among others "Perestroika" (8c) on the 3rd go, a route that is rarely repeated in very vertical and slabby terrain. However, a less training-intensive period until Christmas was also ahead, after a very long competition season. The two factors therefore let me start the climbing trip motivated, but also a bit more relaxed.
But why go back to the rock right away?
I have two very hard competition seasons behind me. In 2018 I successfully completed my Master's studies. Then, of course, an enormous burden comes on top of normal training. The double burden cost a lot of energy and ultimately affected the results and the time at the rock, which somehow shrinks to zero. Then finally the shock at the beginning of 2019. Slipped off a volume while bouldering in training and landed badly: diagnosis fibular fracture and ligament tear. Out for 6 weeks, then rehab and the time that you need again to be able to do boulder moves at the limit, to dare to fall again on your foot. Important time that I missed in the preparation, which is why I spent the time until the World Cups in the summer exclusively in the gym. Ultimately, it didn't go well at the German Lead Championship. Before that I had changed a lot, was in better shape and on the right track. Then comes bad luck too, I slip off a foothold in the semi-final and land unexpectedly and definitely not at the end of my strength in the rope and have to settle for 9th place, one place too few for the final. There I knew I have to radically change something. But what? I have to trust my strengths again and do my thing: climb more again and also get out to the rock.
That is why the trip to Slovenia was on the program for the Christmas holidays. Actually, I wanted to try a different route, more in flatter or moderately overhanging terrain, 
that would be more my thing. But on the right side of Misja Pec it can be very cold in winter, because the sun only spreads its sunbeams on the left side of the ridge. So it happened by chance that I warmed up on the left side on the first climbing day and thought: Why not try the route "Sanjski par" for once? It is in the sun, or rather you can stay in the sun between the attempts. So I came to my project for this trip rather by chance. Thanks to the sun.
I invested 5 climbing days for the 8c+ part, whereby one climbing day only went until 3 PM at the latest, after that it became too uncomfortably cold, after all you can also spend the rest of the day pleasantly in the street cafes in Izola or Portoroz, another important point for projects. Switching off again and again. You can't completely switch off. After falling around 5 times directly after the 8c+ crux, it is not easy mentally when the hardest route you have climbed so far was also 8c+. Three days before the end of the vacation I climbed again, third climbing day and good conditions. I fall again at the 8c+ crux. Spontaneously I decided to relax the rest of the day, climbing day over, my head was not ready yet. Then fourth climbing day, warm-up a bit sluggish, worse feeling than the day before, so what. Just give it full gas. Cleaned the route again, tried the key moves again. Short break, the sun comes out, pleasant temperature, not too warm, still too cold. I climb in, a relaxed feeling spreads: "Okay, now it can work!". I am at the crux, give it full gas, concentrate on the footholds and hold tension. And then I suddenly pull on the next hold, can clip and can also get the next moves to the passable belay behind me: "Okay, just one stress, work cleanly". I fight internally against the endorphins, it is not far to the exit and not too hard anymore. I clip the crux, a shout of joy shakes the whole sector (sorry again for this J ), but it is the emotions and the passion for the sport and for climbing that make it and there was plenty of it. My first 9a, certainly more than motivation for many more rock projects and the 2020 competition season.
