It has now been 6 years since I climbed my first 8a+ on Kalymnos. A lot has happened since then and I have experienced a lot. I was out and about a lot on long trips in Australia, New Zealand, Thailand, in many countries in Europe, Central and South America. Climbing had its ups and downs during this time. I repeatedly came close to progressing further, but then longer trips or injury-related breaks kept getting in the way.
Since I returned from Mexico in early August, things have been going increasingly better. I still had plenty of time to climb outdoors before university started, and my fingers were also cooperating this time, so I was able to train without injury. During the holidays at the end of October, I had another chance to get away for a few days. And off we went to the wonderfully sunny Lake Garda. On the 4th day of climbing, I then tackled one of the numerous difficult routes in Padaro, 'Sono Indiferente' 8b.
It went surprisingly well and I was able to climb all the moves on my first try. The next day I was right back at it and climbed a few sequences. The route is incredibly sustained and becomes very steep as soon as you leave the delicate starting slab, and there are no more resting points until the crux. On my 6th day of climbing, things got exciting. I knew I could climb the route, all the moves were polished. But this very knowledge makes the pressure even greater. You cannot make a mistake. Everything must go perfectly, every movement must be spot on. I have already made it over the crux twice, but during the very sustained sequence afterwards, my strength runs out. I am already quite exhausted after 6 days without a break. One more go before it gets dark. This time everything goes smoothly, no mistakes, every foothold fits. And suddenly, it's done! The first 8b. A great feeling.
Hopefully it won't take another 6 years to get to 8b+, but I have a very good feeling about it ????
